The complete Arizona pool care schedule.

Daily (60 seconds)

Two minutes a day prevents 80% of pool problems.

• Skim the surface — leaves, palm debris, bugs, monsoon dust. Floating debris becomes sunk debris in 24–48 hours.
• Glance at the pump — listen for change in pitch, look at the pressure gauge.
• Quick walk around — any new cracks, leaks, or wet spots near equipment?

Weekly

The core maintenance rhythm. Most homeowners do this Saturday morning.

• Empty the skimmer basket (more often during monsoon and leaf-drop).
• Brush walls, steps, tile line, and behind ladders. Algae starts here.
• Vacuum or run the robotic/suction cleaner.
• Test water — free chlorine, pH, total alkalinity. Adjust as needed.
• Check pool level. Top off if below the skimmer mouth — a pump that loses prime burns up fast.

Every 2 weeks

• Empty the pump basket. Check the lid o-ring — replace if cracked or flat.
• Test cyanuric acid (stabilizer) and calcium hardness.
• Inspect skimmer weir door and basket for cracks.

Monthly (or every 4–6 weeks)

• Rinse cartridge filter elements with a garden hose — fan tip, inside-out.
• Check filter pressure baseline. Note the clean reading.
• Inspect deck drains and pool overflow line for blockage.
• Wipe down salt cell housing and check the flow switch.
• Verify automation/timer is running the schedule you expect.

Quarterly (every 3 months)

• Inspect the salt cell for calcium scale. Acid-clean only if you see white buildup.
• Deep clean cartridge filters in a TSP or cartridge-cleaner soak (overnight).
• Test for phosphates and metals. High phosphates = algae fuel.
• Inspect equipment pad for leaks at unions, valves, and heater connections.
• Check pool light fixtures and niche for moisture.

Annually

• Replace cartridge filters every 2–3 years (don't wait for them to fail).
• Acid-wash or replace DE grids every 2–3 years on DE filters.
• Schedule a professional equipment inspection — pump seals, heater burner, automation firmware, bonding/grounding.
• Drain and refill 25–33% of pool water if TDS exceeds 1,500 ppm above starting level (every 2–3 years in AZ).

Salt water vs. chlorine — what actually changes

Salt pools are still chlorine pools. The salt cell makes chlorine on demand instead of you adding tablets or liquid. Everything else — testing, balancing, brushing, basket cleaning, filter cleaning — is identical.

• Add: clean the salt cell every 3 months, test salt level monthly (target varies by cell — usually 3,000–3,500 ppm).
• Remove: no tablet floater, no liquid chlorine jugs, no shock weekly (the cell can shock on demand).
• Same: pH, alkalinity, cyanuric acid, calcium, phosphates, brushing, vacuuming, filter cleaning.
• Salt cells last 3–7 years and cost $600–$1,200 to replace. Cleaning them prevents premature failure.

Filter type quick reference

• Cartridge (most AE installs): rinse every 4–6 weeks, soak annually, replace every 2–3 years. No backwashing — saves water.
• DE: backwash when pressure climbs 8–10 PSI; recharge with DE powder after each backwash; tear down and clean grids annually.
• Sand: backwash on pressure (not schedule); replace sand every 5–7 years. Least efficient filtration of the three.

Warning signs — call a pro immediately

• Pool turning green or cloudy and not responding to shock within 24 hours.
• Pump screaming, grinding, or short-cycling.
• Filter pressure jumps 10+ PSI in a single day with no obvious cause.
• Salt cell error codes that persist after a cleaning.
• Wet spots near equipment pad, cracks in pool shell, or sudden drop in water level.
• Heater won't fire, lockout codes, or yellow/sooty flame.