March: Plant, transition turf, open the pool for real.

Run every irrigation zone and watch it work.

Open each valve one at a time and look for leaks at fittings, clogged emitters, cracked tubing, pooling, overspray, and dry gaps. March is when demand starts climbing, so a fault that was survivable in January begins killing plants. Send mainline breaks, valve failures, backflow devices, and controller wiring to a qualified irrigation technician.

Reassess watering from plant needs, not the calendar.

Adjust based on species, establishment stage, soil, exposure, and recent rainfall — not a fixed March schedule. Check soil moisture below the surface first, and confirm run times against current University of Arizona Cooperative Extension and water-provider guidance.

Evaluate low-water-use planting opportunities.

Identify where a low-water-use plant would genuinely succeed: sun exposure, mature size versus available space, root room away from footings, drainage, and whether irrigation already reaches the spot. March is often workable for establishment, but suitability is site-specific. Confirm species against Phoenix-area lists from a primary horticultural authority.

Inspect winter damage before cutting anything.

Look for dieback, split bark, discolored tissue, and limbs that failed over winter, and photograph what you find. Pruning timing is species- and condition-specific — some plants tolerate correction now, and dead-looking tissue can still protect live growth. Get species-specific timing from a current extension source, and use a qualified arborist for large limbs or structural defects.

Inspect pavers, patios, and drainage patterns.

Check for settlement, shifted or rocking units, raised trip edges, lost joint sand, ponding that lingers after irrigation or rain, erosion at edges, and runoff moving toward a structure instead of away. March is a comfortable window to correct these before summer use and monsoon season. Recurring settlement, base failure, or water at a foundation needs a qualified contractor.

Plan shade and high-use areas before summer.

During late afternoon, map where sun actually lands and compare it against where people sit, cook, and cross the yard. Consider circulation, sightlines to the pool, drainage paths, and where utilities and irrigation already run. Structural shade elements require engineering and permitting review by qualified professionals.

Prepare the pool and spa for heavier use.

Before use increases, check visible leaks and wet spots at equipment, water level behavior, circulation and return flow, filter condition, light housings, covers, and whether equipment sounds different than last season. Chemistry, heaters, gas components, bonding, and electrical work belong with a qualified pool professional.

Test pool gates, latches, alarms, and barriers.

Physically test every safety layer: gates that self-close and self-latch from fully open, latch condition, fence and glass panel hardware, door and gate alarms, and anything loosened or left propped over winter. Increased March use is exactly when gaps matter. Barrier requirements are set by your municipality or county — verify current local code with that jurisdiction.

Inspect artificial turf and pet-use areas.

Check seams and perimeter edges for lifting, infill that has thinned or migrated, slow drainage after rinsing, compacted depressions, odor concentration in pet areas, and surface distortion consistent with reflected heat. Correct these before surface temperatures climb. Follow the manufacturer's cleaning instructions; seam, base, or drainage repairs go to a qualified installer.

Walk the lighting system after dark.

Do this at night with the system running: look for fixtures knocked out of aim by wind or pruning, dark spots along steps and paths, fogged or debris-filled lenses, loose fixtures, exposed or damaged cable, and failed lamps. Transformers, line-voltage circuits, and damaged wiring belong with a qualified electrician.

Inspect fire features and cooking areas while cool and off.

With everything shut off and fully cool, check for corrosion, cracked masonry, blocked burner ports and vents, damaged media, rodent nesting, deteriorated hoses, and doors that no longer seal. Do not attempt gas diagnosis or repair yourself — suspected gas issues, ignition faults, and appliance concerns go to a qualified technician.